Thai menu has many hits and occasional misses
By: Miriam Morgan, Chronicle Staff Writer
Friday August 09, 1996
Martin Komindr knew what he was doing when he opened Narin in Burlingame four years ago he was virtually raised in the restaurant business in Bangkok, and he translated that experience into a family-run Thai restaurant in San Francisco.
Now, after several years on his continued to refine his style. Narin's menu is intriguing and extensive and is supplemented by half dozen or daily specials.
Komindr does a fine job with the standard chicken Satay appetizer, with a thick peanut sauce that's perfect for dipping, Yam pla muk, the traditional calamari salads, is also nicely done, the calamari poached just until tender and standing kang phet ped yang ,an evocative red -curry roasted duck that maintain a slightly crisp skin ever in the silky curry sauce. Gai yang, Thai barbecued chicken ,sport a softer skin and whisper of curry flavor from the marinade.
A recent special, Japanese eggplant sautéed with prawns. melded both flavors and textures nicely.
A couple of other dishes, however weren't quite as successful : Garlic seafood ,with scallops, mussels, prawns and calamari, tested of salt as much as garlic; and pad Thai (with chicken, prawns or vegetables) was a serviceable but not notable rendition of the classic dish.
Servers at Narin ,who are sometime Komindr family members or friends, are knowledgeable and very accommodating. The restaurant it self is welcoming-a 36 seat, neat as a pin space.
Narin's side-street location means it just misses the traffic of Burlingame Avenue. It's worth a detour.
Tummy growling? Go ahead, plan your weekend around eating out. Here are recaps of restaurants Chronicle critics have reviewed.
Thursday, March 22, 2007